Why Bend homeowners replace siding
Siding materials for Central Oregon
| Material | Good for | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Fiber cement (James Hardie and others) | Rot, insect and fire resistance; holds paint in strong sun; many profiles. The most common choice in Bend. | Heavy; must be installed to the manufacturer's instructions to keep the warranty. Cutting creates silica dust. |
| Engineered wood (e.g. LP SmartSide) | Lighter and easier to handle than fiber cement, real wood texture, usually lower cost. | Combustible. Cut edges and clearances must be sealed and maintained. |
| Cedar and natural wood | Classic mountain look; easy to repair board by board. | Needs restaining often in Bend UV; combustible. |
| Metal panels and lap | Modern look, noncombustible, very durable, low maintenance. | Corners and openings need careful detailing; can dent. |
| Vinyl | Lowest cost. | Less common in Bend; can warp in strong sun and offers little fire resistance. |
| Stone or stone veneer | Accents at the base of walls, entries and columns. | Needs a proper drainage gap and flashing behind it. |
Fiber cement (Hardie) siding in Bend
If you ask around Bend about new siding, you will hear "Hardie" a lot. James Hardie is the best-known brand of fiber cement siding, a mix of cement, sand and wood fibers. It does not rot, insects do not eat it, it is noncombustible, and it holds paint far better than wood under high-desert sun.
The product family
- HardiePlank: lap siding, the most common profile, in smooth and wood-grain textures.
- HardiePanel: vertical panels, often used with battens for a board-and-batten look.
- HardieShingle: shingle-style siding, popular in gables.
- HardieTrim: matching fiber cement trim for corners, windows and fascia.
Cold-climate versions
James Hardie makes its siding in two climate versions under its HardieZone system. The HZ5 line is designed for colder regions with freezing temperatures, snow and ice, which describes Central Oregon. Ask your contractor which line they are installing.
Factory finish or painted on site?
- Factory finish (Hardie's is called ColorPlus): baked on, consistent color and no painting step. Usually lasts longer before repainting, a real advantage in Bend sun.
- Primed and painted on site: any color you want, easy touch-ups, and you can repaint later. Expect to repaint sooner.
What to ask a fiber cement installer
- Are you trained or certified by the manufacturer, and will the install qualify for the full product warranty?
- Which product line (HZ5) and finish are you quoting?
- How do you handle clearances from the ground, roofs, decks and hardscape? (The manufacturer specifies these; skipping them is a common cause of failures.)
- How do you cut it? Cutting fiber cement makes silica dust; good crews use dust-collecting saws or shears and cut outdoors away from open windows.
- What fasteners and nailing pattern do you use, and how do you seal cut ends and butt joints?
- Is trim fiber cement too, or wood? (Wood trim next to fiber cement is a weak spot.)
How Bend's climate is hard on siding
- Strong sun. At 3,600+ feet, UV breaks down paint, stain and caulk faster than in the valley, especially on south and west walls.
- Big temperature swings. 30 to 40 degree swings between day and night expand and contract boards and open joints.
- Snow against walls. Snow sliding off roofs or plowed off driveways sits against the bottom courses for weeks, melting and refreezing.
- Sprinklers. Irrigation heads spraying siding all summer are one of the most common causes of rot we hear about.
- Wildfire season. Embers collect at the base of walls. A noncombustible base and noncombustible siding reduce that risk.
What a good siding job includes
- An inspection before the quote, including probing suspect areas and checking for interior stains.
- Unit prices for hidden damage: sheathing per sheet and framing repair per hour or per foot, so surprises are not open-ended.
- A new weather-resistive barrier (house wrap) lapped correctly, with taped or flashed openings.
- Window and door flashing tied into the new barrier, not just caulked. See our windows guide if replacement is on the table.
- Kick-out flashings where roof edges meet walls.
- Manufacturer clearances from soil, hardscape, decks and roofs.
- Vents and penetrations flashed, and ideally upgraded to ember-resistant vents while the wall is open.
- Photos of the open walls before they are covered. Keep them for your records and future buyers.
- Paint or finish clearly included or excluded, with cut ends sealed.
- Cleanup, including nails from the yard and dust control.

Water damage and dry rot behind siding
Bend is dry, so people are often surprised to find rot. When they do, it almost always traces back to a few predictable water sources.
Warning signs


Where the water usually comes from
- Missing kick-out flashing where a roof edge meets a wall, sending roof water straight down the siding. Our roofing guide covers this.
- Window and door flashing that relies on caulk instead of sill pans and taped flanges.
- Deck ledgers attached without flashing. See our deck builders guide.
- Sprinklers and snow soaking the lower courses.
- Gutters overflowing or dumping water against walls. See our gutters guide.
Repair a section or re-side?
Our bottom line
For most Bend homes, fiber cement installed to the manufacturer's instructions is the safe, long-lasting choice, with engineered wood, cedar and metal as good alternatives depending on look and budget. Whatever you choose, the weather barrier, flashing and clearances behind and around the boards decide how long it lasts. Get unit prices for hidden rot, ask the fiber cement questions above, and have the open walls photographed.
