The first 24 hours
- Stop the water. Know where your main shutoff is before you need it. In many Bend homes it is in the garage, a crawl space or near the water heater.
- Stay safe. Turn off power to wet areas at the breaker if you can do so without standing in water.
- Document everything. Photos and video of the source, the water, and damaged belongings before you move anything.
- Call a plumber to fix the source.
- Call your insurer and get a claim number.
- Start drying. A mitigation company will extract water, remove wet materials that cannot be saved, and set fans and dehumidifiers. Keep their moisture readings.
- Keep receipts for anything you buy and any hotel stay.
Mitigation vs. rebuild: two different jobs
Mitigation (dry-out)Emergency extraction, tear-out of wet drywall, insulation, carpet and pad, drying equipment and moisture monitoring.Days
Reconstruction (rebuild)New drywall, insulation, flooring, cabinets, trim and paint once everything is dry and documented.Weeks
Some companies do both; many do only one. Using one company for both can simplify insurance. Using a separate general contractor for the rebuild can make sense if you want to upgrade while the room is open, for example switching to waterproof LVP in place of the carpet that got soaked.
Do not let anyone close walls too soon. Ask for final moisture readings showing framing and subfloor are dry before insulation and drywall go back in. Sealing in wet framing is how mold problems start months later.
Working with insurance
- The adjuster writes a scope of loss. Ask for a copy.
- Your contractor writes their own estimate. Differences are normal; they get resolved line by line with supplements.
- Upgrades beyond like-for-like are usually your cost. Get them priced separately so the insurance portion stays clean.
- Matching: if only part of a continuous floor was damaged, ask how matching the undamaged areas will be handled.
- Older homes: asbestos testing may be required before tearing out materials in homes built before 2004, which can add time.
The usual causes of water damage in Bend
Frozen pipesPipes in exterior walls, crawl spaces and garages during cold snaps, and in second homes left with the heat too low.Most common winter claim
Hose bibsA hose left attached in fall can freeze and split the pipe inside the wall. It may not leak until spring.Disconnect hoses in October
Ice damsSnow melts on a warm roof and refreezes at the eaves, pushing water under shingles into walls and ceilings.See our roofing guide
Water heatersTanks fail with age. Hard water in parts of Central Oregon can shorten their life.Check the age
Showers and tubsFailed grout, caulk or waterproofing leaks slowly into subfloors and ceilings below.Often hidden for months
Supply linesToilet, sink, dishwasher, fridge and washer hoses burst without warning.Replace old rubber hoses
How to prevent it next winter
- Disconnect hoses and drain outdoor faucets before the first hard freeze. Our sprinkler blowout guide covers the irrigation side.
- Insulate pipes in crawl spaces and garages, and keep crawl space vents and doors closed in winter if your home is designed that way.
- Keep the heat at a safe minimum in second homes and have someone check them. A smart water shutoff valve or leak sensors can stop a leak while you are away.
- Replace rubber supply hoses with braided stainless ones.
- Have your roof and attic checked for ice dam risk. See our roofing guide and gutters guide.
Water got behind your siding instead? That is a different problem. See our siding guide (water damage and dry rot section).